How to Care for a Compromised Skin Barrier: Simple Advice From Cosmetic Chemist Josie Barrett for Sensitive & Eczema-Prone Skin

When your skin is sensitive, dry, irritated or prone to eczema, it can be tempting to keep adding products in the hope of finding something that will fix it. But according to cosmetic chemist Josie Barrett, the answer may actually be much simpler.

We spoke to Josie as part of our Lessons Learnt series to understand what happens when the skin barrier is compromised and what your skincare routine should look like when your skin needs a little extra support.

What is a compromised skin barrier?

Your skin barrier is the outer layer of your skin that helps keep moisture in and protects your skin from external irritants. When that barrier is compromised, moisture can escape more easily, which can leave skin feeling dry, tight, sensitive or uncomfortable. For skin that is already prone to sensitivity or eczema, supporting this barrier is particularly important. 

Less is more

One of Josie's biggest pieces of advice for compromised skin is simple: less is more. When the skin barrier is compromised, she recommends focusing on products that support the skin's physical barrier rather than introducing lots of new actives or complicated steps.

From a formulation perspective, she looks for:

• Simple ingredient lists

• Effective occlusives and emollients

• Fragrance-free formulations

• Low levels of potential irritants

The goal isn't to overwhelm the skin with more products. It's to give the skin what it needs to retain moisture and support its natural barrier.

What role does lanolin play?

Lanolin is an emollient and occlusive ingredient with a composition that shares similarities with the lipids naturally found in the skin. This makes it particularly useful in formulations designed to support the skin barrier. It helps soften the skin while creating a protective layer that reduces moisture loss.

Josie describes pharmaceutical-grade lanolin as an effective ingredient for supporting the skin's barrier, particularly when skin is dry or compromised. This is one of the reasons lanolin has been used in skincare for generations - and why it remains an important ingredient in modern formulations.

What about eczema-prone and sensitive skin?

There isn't one skincare routine that works for everyone. Sensitive and eczema-prone skin can respond differently depending on the individual and what has caused the skin to become compromised. But the same principle applies: start with the basics. If your skin is feeling irritated or reactive, consider simplifying your routine and prioritising gentle, barrier-supporting products before introducing more active ingredients. As Josie puts it, “Less is more.”

Start with the basics

The skincare industry can make it feel as though you need a complicated routine and a different product for every concern. You don't. When your skin barrier is compromised, bringing your routine back to the basics can be a good place to start: cleanse gently, support the skin barrier, keep moisture in and give your skin time to recover. Consistency matters more than constantly adding something new. And if you're dealing with persistent eczema, irritation or an ongoing skin concern, it's always worth speaking to a healthcare professional who can help identify what your skin needs.

A little more from Josie

Our conversation with Josie covered everything from lanolin and compromised skin barriers to lip balm formulation, fragrance, skincare trends and the ingredients that deserve more credit.

Read the full Lessons Learnt with cosmetic chemist Josie Barrett →